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Every morning I watched tourists walk past these stalls to find a café with English menus. Meanwhile there's a line of motos parked outside and everyone's eating something that costs sixty cents and tastes better than anything on TripAdvisor.







Asked my tuk-tuk driver what he eats for dinner and he looked at me like nobody had ever asked before. Took me to three places I never would have found — none had menus in English.




Wandered into Phsar Thmei without a plan and left two hours later with sticky fingers and a bag full of things I couldn't identify. Best eating decisions happen when you just point at whatever looks interesting.










Pub Street gets all the foot traffic but the real food is happening on side streets where the rent is cheaper and the cooks have been making the same three dishes for twenty years.










Stood in my kitchen two weeks after getting back and realized I couldn't recreate a single dish without specific ingredients. Ordered these online and finally got close to what I was eating in Phnom Penh.










Searched for Cambodian cookbooks at home and found maybe three that weren't just generic Southeast Asian collections. These are the ones that helped me stop butchering recipes.










First few days I was unprepared — stomach issues, no way to carry market food, melting in the heat while waiting for meals. Fixed all of it by day four.










My Lonely Planet was three years outdated and half the restaurants it listed had closed. Found better intel from these sources that actual travelers and locals keep updated.








