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Before Ksamil I thought I liked seafood. Turns out I'd just never had fish pulled from the water an hour before it hit my plate. These spots ruined restaurant fish back home permanently.













Drove two hours up a gravel road in Përmet because someone at a gas station told me about a beekeeper. That jar of wild thyme honey is the single best thing I brought home.













Walked around Tirana for a full day spending maybe twelve euros total on food and never once felt hungry. The street food scene here punches way above its price.










Never thought I'd say a clay pot of lamb changed my outlook on cooking, but here we are. Albanian tavë is a different animal from anything I've had in Greek or Turkish restaurants.







Thought I could handle my liquor until an Albanian farmer poured me homemade raki at eleven in the morning and my afternoon disappeared. Respect the pour.
















Stood in a Përmet market watching a woman cut fresh cheese from a wheel the size of a tire. Bought a kilo for three euros and ate most of it in the car before reaching my hotel.
















Was not expecting Albania to have incredible vegetable cooking but the peppers, tomatoes, and eggplant there taste like they're from a different planet than what I buy at home.










Poured olive oil from a plastic jug at a roadside stand onto bread and stood there in the sun realizing every bottle I'd ever bought at home was lying to me.













Albanians drink more coffee per capita than Italians and nobody told me this. Sat in cafes for hours and not a single waiter gave me the check-glance.
















Had zero expectations for Albanian wine and then a waiter in Berat poured me a glass of Shesh i Zi that made me rethink every cheap Chianti I'd ever settled for.













The best meals I had in Albania were never on a menu. They happened when someone's mom or grandmother decided I looked hungry and started pulling things out of a kitchen I wasn't supposed to see.








