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I thought truffle oil from the grocery store was fancy until I sat in a tiny Istrian village and watched a guy shave a fresh truffle the size of my fist over handmade fuži. Nothing has tasted right since.
















Asked every boat captain I met where they eat dinner. Not one of them pointed toward the main promenade. These are the spots they sent me to instead.
















Went in knowing nothing about Croatian wine. Came home with a suitcase that was 60% bottles wrapped in dirty laundry. These are the ones I keep reordering.
















Not every meal needs a tablecloth. Some of my most memorable bites were standing on a sidewalk with grease running down my wrist at 2pm.
















Told myself I'd eat healthy on this trip. That lasted exactly until I walked past my first Croatian bakery and smelled something butter-based wafting out the door.
















Started hitting open-air markets on day two when I realized the produce in Croatia tastes like produce used to taste before everything got shipped across three continents.
















Did my first real olive oil tasting in Istria and realized I'd been cooking with what basically amounts to flavored vegetable juice my entire adult life.
















Usually when a restaurant has a killer view, the food is mediocre because they know you're paying for the scenery. These places somehow nailed both.
















Took three cooking classes along the coast because watching someone else cook felt like cheating. Came home and actually replicated two dishes successfully, which is a personal record.
















Walked into these expecting soggy fries and a warm beer. Got cocktails that rivaled city bars and food that had no business being this good with sand between my toes.
















Brought back a suitcase full of edible souvenirs and unlike the decorative plate from my Rome trip, I actually use every single one of these weekly.














