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Nobody warned me that most Riviera beaches are pebble or rock, not sand. I destroyed a pair of flip-flops on day one and hobbled around Gjipe Beach like I'd never seen the ocean before.










The Albanian sun at noon in July felt like standing under a magnifying glass. I thought my usual SPF 30 would cut it — came back looking like a lobster after one afternoon at Mirror Beach.










Half the waterfront restaurants in Sarandë serve the same overpriced tourist menu. It took me three disappointing meals before locals pointed me away from the promenade.










Public transport exists but barely, and the mountain roads between beach towns are not what Google Maps prepares you for. I white-knuckled a rental car up a cliff road my first day and wished someone had told me what to expect.










Everyone goes straight to Ksamil, which is beautiful but packed shoulder-to-shoulder in July. The best stretches of coast were places I only found because a bartender drew me a map on a napkin.










Albanian towns along the Riviera are way more dressed-up at night than I expected. I showed up to a nice dinner in Himarë wearing board shorts and felt immediately out of place.










My American bank card got declined at three ATMs before I figured out the system. Albania uses lek, not euros, and the cash situation caught me completely off guard.










Spending every day on the beach is tempting, but the two days I went inland were honestly the highlights. Albania has layers that the coastline alone doesn't show you.










These aren't glamorous items. They're the boring things that would have saved me from three separate pharmacy runs and one very uncomfortable bus ride.








