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Before my first trip I thought a Pilsner Urquell at an airport bar was the whole story. Then I sat down in a smoky basement in Žižkov and realized I'd been drinking a photocopy of the real thing my entire life.














Nobody warned me that Czech pub food would be this heavy or this addictive. First night I ordered three things thinking they'd be appetizer-sized. They were not. My belt has never recovered.
















Half the good pubs in Prague don't show up on the first page of Google. I wandered down a wrong alley in Vinohrady once and found a place with no English menu, eight-crown beers, and the best atmosphere of the whole trip.















Nobody hands you a menu right away. The waiter marks tally lines on a slip of paper. Your beer gets refilled without asking. I spent my first evening mildly panicked before realizing this system is actually genius.
















Almost didn't leave Prague my second trip because I was lazy. Biggest mistake of trip one was not renting a car and hitting smaller towns where the beer is fresher, the prices are half, and nobody is selling you a Kafka refrigerator magnet.














