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Roman Complex Turned Croatian City: Split Guide

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Where ancient Roman ruins meet Adriatic coastline views, discover Split through its most atmospheric corners. From Diocletian’s Palace courtyards and marble alleyways to pine-covered hills above turquoise waters—use my recommendations below to plan a...
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what to do in split ⛵

from the top down, start with historic highlights throughout diocletian's palace before making your way outside the city on an action-packed day trip—or even week.

 
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the waterfront promenade of split, it's in your best interest to avoid most of the tourist trap restaurants lining the ground level—simply stroll down the wide walkway taking in ocean views with a superyacht backdrop 🌴
Riva
 
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a free scenic observation platform with a view over the old town, it's a bit of an uphill hike to get here but the view through the aleppo pines is undoubtedly worth it. if you have time to spare explore the inner pathways of the entire forest park, ...
Marjan Hill
 
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a produce-filled farmer's market with typical tourist stands lining the perimeter. grab fruit to snack along the riva, customize a screen-printed croatia shirt, or snag a checkered modrić kit while you're there 🥝
Green Market
 
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rub the statue's now weathered toe for good luck before entering diocletian's palace 🧙‍♂️
Gregory of Nin
 
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the characteristic of split that confused me the most before visiting—rather than a ticketed museum, the entire old town of this croatian city is built into the remains of an ancient roman complex, also known as diocletian's palace. get lost in the n...
Diocletian's Palace
 
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the only part of diocletian's palace you have to buy a physical ticket from the in-person office to enter: explore the bell tower, crypt, cathedral, treasury, and baptistery with various combo tickets. i opted to enter the first 3—with the crypt bein... ornate golden byzantine orthodox icons. the bell tower is the top landmark attraction here imo, entailing a 173-step climb up an extremely narrow, spiral staircase (only one person can really walk up or down at a time) to the top with a look at the i...
Saint Domnius Bell Tower
 
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an open-air rooftop bar and hookah joint overlooking the harbor to grab a drink. the space is HUGE with plenty of space to lounge, so it can easily fit your whole squad 🍸
Roof 68
 
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the only canyoning destination in croatia, the cetina is truly an extreme day trip from split. cliff jump, slide around rocks in the river, and rappel 53 meters alongside a waterfall—to keep it real, this is one of the most physically difficult excur...
Extreme Cetina River Canyoning
 
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take an opportunity to collect another passport stamp in this day trip to bosnia and herzegovina. the three highlights in the group bus tour include: počitelj (hike to the pašina tabija viewpoint, sip on fresh pomegranate juice for €1, and if you're ...
Mostar & Kravica Waterfall Day Trip
 
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the whole reason i was in split to begin with—THE BEST WEEK OF MY LIFE!! sail, swim, party, repeat is the daily itinerary and the croatia route is yacht week's original sail, so you already know it's the best. find the full 411 on my substack 🛥️
Yacht Week Croatia

where to eat in split 🥪

everywhere i ate during my time  in split – this carefully curated list highlights the croatian coastal city's best spots from upscale set menus to some of the most interesting desserts in the balkans.

 
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a coveted coffee shop open early—which is particularly helpful if you're headed out in the morning for a day trip to b&h or the cetina river ☕
D16 Coffee
 
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the best sandwich in town served on toasted, moist, herb-y foccacia; skip the line of tourists at the main shop and head to their second location only found on google maps. i snacked on the mortadella stuffed with stracciatella and chopped pistachios...
Focaccina
 
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a choose-your-own raw seafood trio ideal for a small, refreshing lunch—especially during the peak of summer heat when icy granita oysters are the only appropriate way to cool down 🦪
PiNKU fish & wine
 
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classic italian dishes in the old town. you can't go wrong with the famous pizza or pasta here, but be sure to request outdoor patio seating surrounded by plenty of greenery under the ancient roman arches—the breskvaola pie topped with caramelised pe...
Pizzaferaj
 
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rooftop 3-course contemporary mediterranean set menu overlooking the riva. all the dishes are topped with plenty of symmetrical molds and emulsions elevating the equally sophisticated palette profiles—but the butter flight with four flavors (includin...
ZOI
 
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the best buttery nigiri i had in the balkans, this upscale indoor and outdoor eatery could contend with japanese sushi. definitely on the fancier side, so be prepared to splurge 🥪
Adriatic
 
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corto maltese is just plain weird—and that's the beauty of it. with an interior inspired by the comic caption of the same name, i can guarantee anything you order here will have a flavor and texture combination unlike anything you've ever tried befor...
Corto Maltese Freestyle Food
 
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portofino didn't blow me away but it's a reasonable choice for nicer, outdoor patio dining that won't break the bank—or force you to order from a set menu 🥣
Portofino
 
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if you're visiting croatia and thinking to yourself, “man i'm craving indian right now"—this is the spot. with surprisingly delectable butter chicken, i hid in here during a rainstorm considering it's conveniently connected to design hostel one.
Rooh
 
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i am a diehard puffy lil' pancakes fan and even traveled to slovenia to secure these perfect morsels from their original shop in ljubljana. the best baked dessert imaginable, infinitely many combinations are possible with a topping bar full of everyt...
Puffy Lil' Pancakes
 
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 another dessert highlight (who knew split was the sweet treat capital of the world?), i have yet to see this unique concept with perfectly portioned to-go cups anywhere else. grab to-go tiramisu and enjoy in one of the many open plazas around dioclet...
Tiramisù Bar