26
items 
Walked past about 400 stalls selling the same evil eye magnets before I finally found the ones where locals actually shop. Took me three visits and a lot of wrong turns.













My cooking was painfully bland before this trip. Walked into the Spice Bazaar planning to buy saffron, left with a bag so heavy the handle broke on the tram ride back.










Skipped a fancy restaurant reservation because I saw a line of 30 locals waiting at a window. Best decision of the trip, worst decision for my pants' waistband.













After three days of walking 25,000 steps on cobblestone, my back felt like a bag of rocks. A local at my hotel told me to stop complaining and just go to a hammam.







Started buying one small bowl as a souvenir. Ended up wrapping seven pieces in dirty laundry and praying through turbulence the whole flight home.










Missed a boat tour because I couldn't stop drinking tea at a tiny café overlooking the Bosphorus. The waiter kept refilling my glass and I kept letting him.










Every guidebook said Sultanahmet. A bartender said skip it and walk Balat instead. The bartender was right and the guidebook can kick rocks.













Cobblestone destroyed my first pair of shoes on day two. Rain showed up unannounced on day three. Here's what I wish I'd packed from the start.








