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At 4,000 meters, the UV index is brutal and you won't feel the burn until it's too late. I came back looking like a lobster with goggle tan lines because I underestimated the Andean sun.



















Morning at the reserve started at 2°C and hit 18°C by noon. I was freezing in the van, then sweating twenty minutes into the walk. Layers are the only answer.














The flamingos at Laguna de Salinas feed far from shore. I squinted for an hour trying to see them clearly with bare eyes before giving up and borrowing someone's binoculars like a tourist cliché.














Arequipa sits at 2,300 meters but the reserve jumps to over 4,000. I felt fine in the city, then got a splitting headache thirty minutes into the walk. Don't make my mistake.
















There are no shops at Laguna de Salinas. No bathrooms, no shade structures, no snack bars. Whatever you need, you carry in. I learned this when I ran out of water two hours from the van.














