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🎺 New Orleans' French Quarter, Marigny & Tremé: Beignets, Jazz Clubs & Creole Classics

30 items

Mikey Stark

My first-timer's game plan for New Orleans — beignets and muffulettas in the French Quarter, old-line Creole dining rooms, then live jazz on Frenchmen Street and soul food in Tremé. These are the spots I actually send friends to when they ask where t...

Map

I grab an order of powdered-sugar beignets and a café au lait here first thing — it's open late too, so it's my move after a night on Frenchmen.

Cafe Du Monde

I make a beeline for the original muffuletta at the deli that invented it in 1906 — a half is plenty for two, and they're open 9 to 5 daily.

Central Grocery and Deli

I order a Pimm's Cup and a warm quarter muffuletta in this 200-year-old landmark with the peeling walls and classical music playing.

Napoleon House

I always split a dozen chargrilled oysters with friends here — the line moves faster than it looks.

Acme Oyster House

I duck across the street to Felix's when the Acme line is long and grab a stool at the raw bar for shucked-to-order oysters.

Felix's Restaurant & Oyster Bar

I get the fried shrimp po-boy dressed at this cash-friendly counter since 1950 — just know it's Thursday through Sunday, breakfast and lunch only.

Johnny's Po-Boys

I come to the city's oldest restaurant (since 1840) for the original oysters Rockefeller and a peek into the memorabilia-filled back rooms.

Antoine's Restaurant

I dress up for a long Friday lunch at Galatoire's — the soufflé potatoes and shrimp rémoulade are pure old New Orleans.

Galatoire's

I order the namesake French 75 in this clubby little bar at Arnaud's before dinner — it's one of the best cocktail rooms in the city.

French 75 Bar

I book brunch in the pink building on Royal Street for eggs Hussarde and the bananas Foster flambéed tableside, since this is where it was invented.

Brennan's

I come here when I want beignets without the Café Du Monde crowd — the little courtyard on Royal is a great people-watching spot.

Cafe Beignet, Royal Street

I order the rabbit and sausage jambalaya and Cajun fried chicken at this divey 21+ Decatur Street favorite — it's closed Wednesdays.

Coop's Place

I come for the half-pound burger with a loaded baked potato and a Neptune's Monsoon at this dark nautical bar on Esplanade.

Port of Call

I make the trip to Leah Chase's legendary Tremé dining room for fried chicken and gumbo z'herbes surrounded by African American art — check the limited hours first.

Dooky Chase Restaurant

I grab a seat at the slowly rotating bar inside Hotel Monteleone and order a Vieux Carré, the cocktail that was invented here.

The Carousel Bar & Lounge

I order a Hurricane in the flaming-fountain courtyard and then catch the dueling pianos inside.

Pat O'Brien's

I like a candlelit drink at this 1700s building on quiet upper Bourbon that's said to be one of the oldest bars in America.

Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop Bar

I book a short set at this no-frills hall to hear traditional New Orleans jazz the way it's been played here since 1961 — get tickets ahead.

Preservation Hall

I squeeze into this tiny Frenchmen Street club for live trad jazz and swing dancers — there's music from the afternoon until late.

The Spotted Cat Music Club

I book a seat for the 7:30 or 9:30 set when I want a proper sit-down modern jazz show with dinner.

Snug Harbor Jazz Bistro

I end Frenchmen nights here for brass bands, funk, and zydeco plus a deep beer and whiskey list.

DBA

I wander the square to see the street artists, buskers, and Andrew Jackson statue with the cathedral in the background.

Jackson Square

I always step inside the oldest continuously active cathedral in the U.S. — the white facade at night is the classic New Orleans photo.

St. Louis Cathedral

I browse the open-air stalls for hot sauce, pralines, and souvenirs after my beignets.

French Market

I love this museum inside the Old U.S. Mint for Louis Armstrong's first cornet and the free live shows upstairs.

New Orleans Jazz Museum

I pop into the free galleries here for the best crash course on how the French Quarter and the city came to be.

The Historic New Orleans Collection

I take the two-hour jazz cruise on the last true steam-powered paddlewheeler on the Mississippi — the calliope at boarding is a treat.

Steamboat NATCHEZ

I walk through the big arched gate to Congo Square, the spot where African music traditions that shaped jazz were kept alive.

Louis Armstrong Park

I stroll the riverfront here to watch the ships and ferries on the Mississippi, especially around sunset.

Goldring Woldenberg Riverfront Park

I always browse this tiny bookstore in the house where William Faulkner wrote his first novel, tucked in Pirate's Alley beside the cathedral.

Faulkner House Books