
The temperature swung 15 degrees in two hours on my last Krafla walk. I was sweating near the steam vents and shivering on the crater rim ten minutes later. These layers saved me from both extremes.






















The terrain around Krafla switches from sharp volcanic rock to squishy sulfur mud in about ten steps. I watched someone in sneakers slide into a puddle of warm gray sludge on my second trip. Don't be that person.




















Cell service cuts out on parts of the Krafla trail and the marked paths near the steam vents can be confusing when fog rolls in. I nearly wandered off trail my first visit because I assumed I'd just follow the crowd. There was no crowd.






















Krafla looks like another planet. The blue Viti crater lake, the bubbling mud pots, the steam rising off black lava. I regretted bringing only my phone on my first trip because the sulfur haze made half my shots look washed out.


















There's basically one gas station and a couple of restaurants near Myvatn, and nothing at Krafla itself. I learned to pack real food after eating a sad granola bar for lunch while staring at one of the most incredible landscapes on Earth.


















