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The weather in the highlands changes every fifteen minutes. I started one morning in sunshine and was soaked to my bones by lunch. These layers kept me functional when the sky decided to pick a fight.






















The trail to Sigoldugljufur involves fording streams and scrambling over volcanic rock. My first pair of boots gave me blisters by hour two. These are what I switched to and what I recommend to anyone heading out there.






















Cell service disappears fast once you leave the ring road. The trail to the canyon isn't always marked, and conditions change quickly. I got turned around once in fog and was very glad I had these with me.




















You hike all that way and then the canyon opens up below you with dozens of waterfalls pouring down red and green cliffs. My phone photos were fine but I wished I'd brought better gear the first time. Second trip, I came prepared.






















There are no shops, no cafes, no water fountains out there. Just you, volcanic rock, and glacial streams. I bonked hard on my first attempt because I packed like I was going on a two-hour stroll. Don't repeat my mistake.






















I've been sunburned and hypothermic on the same hike in Iceland. The highlands don't care about your weather app. Layering is everything, and these specific pieces earned their spot in my pack through trial and painful error.




















Getting to Sigoldugljufur is half the battle. You need a proper vehicle, the right timing, and actual knowledge of highland road conditions. I showed up in a rental sedan once and had to turn around. Here's what actually gets you there.




















