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Standing on Stórhöfði in 40 mph gusts trying to hold binoculars steady was humbling. These are the optics that let me get clear views of puffins without my arms giving out after ten minutes.













The forecast said 12°C and partly cloudy. What I got was sideways rain, then sun, then fog, all in 90 minutes. These layers kept me functional instead of miserable on the cliffs.











Puffins are surprisingly cooperative subjects, they just stand there looking ridiculous. But the light changes fast and the wind shakes everything. Here's what got me sharp shots instead of blurry orange blobs.













Not everything about puffin watching is gear. Some of the best parts were things I almost skipped because they sounded too touristy. Every one of these made the trip better than just standing on a cliff alone.











